River sutra of hidden hierarchies

River sutra of hidden hierarchies

English philosopher Herbert Spencer’s theory of evolution, popularised by Charles Darwin argues survival of the fittest, thereby leading to a natural process of selection and extinction. This theory often applies…
All that Jazz

All that Jazz

In 2013, Zian Bhamgara, stage name Zian B, had just returned from studying jazz vocals in Germany and the Netherlands, under Sabine Kühlich, head of vocals at Conservatorium Maastricht. She…
Pack Your Bags

Pack Your Bags

The creative directors at label Satya Paul have brought a travel-ready collection for those who get itchy feet. Named ‘Pleasure Gardens’, it takes one on a flight of fantasy with…
Sax and the city

Sax and the city

It’s three in the afternoon at the iconic French Quarter of New Orleans in the US. The city’s oldest neighbourhood is a vibrant hub of food and music. The narrow…
Where myth meets reality

Where myth meets reality

A little further on, Dhanushkodi, the ghost town, holds its own poignant allure to the tourist. The ruins of a church, remnants of a railway station and a sunken temple…
Holding fort in the happiest country

Holding fort in the happiest country

Marc Dujardin, in his study, From Living to Propelling Monument, writes: “Contrary to most medieval castles in Europe that are relatively dead monuments and literally ‘empty’ places, Bhutanese (dzongs) are…
A Bohemian rhapsody

A Bohemian rhapsody

As the setting sun glimmers on the baroque cathedral at the Old Town Square at Jicin, a local guide dressed as a Medieval Duke comes forward with a flourish. He…
Pride and patrimony

Pride and patrimony

Is coexistence of man and animal possible when there is a deep-rooted respect for nature? The Maldhari tribe of Gir know the answer. When the Maldhari cattle herders came to…
One man is an Island

One man is an Island

Majuli has been screaming for attention. It is the world’s largest inhabited river island and a melting pot of Assam’s neo-Vaishnavite, and indigenous tribal cultures, and famous for its 22…
A house for Ms Pearl S Buck

A house for Ms Pearl S Buck

Manicured gardens and green lawns, historic stone archways, and a rustic greenhouse spread across 68 picturesque acres in Bucks County, Pennsylvania, US, create the backdrop for the 1825 farmhouse that…
Swachh Sikkim Village

Swachh Sikkim Village

Cleanliness begins at home. In 2017, Dawa Choden Bhutia, the panchayat president of Phadamchen village in Sikkim, assembled 17 women to form a group called Swachhata Sahayogi, a name that…
Hospitably Ethnic by the Sea

Hospitably Ethnic by the Sea

In the scenic coastal village of Dombe near Karnataka’s Byndoor, a homestay comes alive in the wee hours of the morning. Greater coucals and Rufous Treepie hop around, alighting high…
Calling on Armenia’s Van Gogh

Calling on Armenia’s Van Gogh

As you sit down with Armenian painter Lusik Aguletsi’s family—the artist was often called the Van Gogh of Armenia—sipping warm mountain tea, the room becomes filled with conversations, memories and…
Of Pinocchio and Holy Relics

Of Pinocchio and Holy Relics

Walking through the narrow alleys and cobblestoned lanes of the town, one comes across patrician homes of traders and stately half-timbered buildings that once held corn and grain to protect…
A tale between two countries

A tale between two countries

One of the oldest cities in Scandinavia and home to the world’s oldest amusement park, Copenhagen has a plethora of adventures for the discerning traveller. But there lies a hidden…
Going, going, gone

Going, going, gone

Garima Sinha, a 32-year-old marketing professional and avid traveller from Noida, made an unusual decision during her visit to Canada last year. Instead of following the typical tourist route, she…
Watch and wait

Watch and wait

Sleep early, wake up early” is the motto of the enthusiastic guides at the Satpura Tiger Reserve in Madhya Pradesh. Punctuality is a virtue, being at the right place at…
The ladle of the exile

The ladle of the exile

India has few destination restaurants. Naar, a cozy, 16-cover one-of-a-kind restaurant in a tiny village near Kasauli in Himachal Pradesh, is one. The mountains cast a spell on Kashmir-born maverick…
Up above the world

Up above the world

Right at the start, a few guests want to give up. But instructor Adnan eggs them on, escorting each participant, from the top of the cliff to the first landing.…
Words worth

Words worth

The Daunt bookstore almost diverts attention from the substantial collection of volumes it is stocked with. Situated on a quiet road in Marylebone, a London suburb, it was formerly an…
All quiet in Clovelly

All quiet in Clovelly

Charming historic houses cling to the wooded hillside, lining the steep cobbled street that snakes down the hill to the traditional fishing harbour on the coast. In the distance, the…
The Island that César built

The Island that César built

A vast expanse of wasteland, rugged and hostile, filled with colours of the earth—black, grey, red, brown, with a smattering of green—creates the textural kaleidoscope called Timanfaya National Park. A…
Fort runner

Fort runner

To grab a fantastic view, visitors have to climb up a cobblestone path made of hundreds of steps and cross the seven gates or pols—Ganesh Pol, Andheri Pol, Navlakha Pol,…
Heeding the call of Shiva

Heeding the call of Shiva

“Har har Mahadev...Har Har Mahadev...”Each time you feel it is impossible to take another step forward on the hard road to Rudranath temple, nestled inside dense rhododendron forests and mountain…
Awaiting a golden moment

Awaiting a golden moment

In 1765, Jassa Singh Ahluwalia defeated Afghan invader Ahmad Shah Abdali in the Battle of Amritsar and established the Katra Ahluwalia, a self-sufficient, small neighbourhood. “Such neighbourhoods were a common…
The other side of Nepal

The other side of Nepal

A striking pagoda with cantilevered wooden roofs, towers above Bhaktapur, a royal city in the Kathmandu Valley, Nepal. Close by is an Indian-style temple whose statues of deities are carved…
The Jeju rock show

The Jeju rock show

A teenager wearing black shorts and a pink T-shirt is about to start hiking to the peak of the scenic Seongsan Ilchulbong Tuff Cone. Standing at the base, entry ticket…
The French silk route

The French silk route

Travelling to Lyon from Paris is taking a two-hour train ride to the Medieval Ages. Of course with a soupcon of intrigue. The Old Town in Lyon’s 5th arrondissement, built…
Dune by the yurt

Dune by the yurt

Back at the camp, a leisurely camel safari awaits. At a giant communal yurt made specifically for guests to feast together, sumptuous meals are served. Gastronomy enthusiasts can choose from…
A ruinous good time

A ruinous good time

Interestingly, ruin pubs have a short history—they are only two decades old. In the 20th century, Budapest’s Jewish Quarter was the site of a Jewish ghetto. World War II and…
The Temple Scientists

The Temple Scientists

Back to the roots’ is the ethos of Ezha, which in Malayalam means ‘thread’. Three women conservation architects Swathy Subramanian, Savita Rajan and Ritu Sara Thomas weaved a thread from…
Travellers Without Borders

Travellers Without Borders

The Northeast of India, and its neighbour Myanmar aka Burma is knitted with secret forest routes and sprawling grasslands. Borders did not exist until British imperials tired from war left…
Realm of thrones

Realm of thrones

Egypt’s illustrious history is the protagonist in a one-of-a-kind drama that unfolds within the thick walls of the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. Centrally located on the edge of Maidan Al-Tahrir…
Up above the world so high

Up above the world so high

Taking a walk means diffrent things in different places. Insta Reels show off the thrill of climbing creaky ladders along the Mawryngkhang Bamboo Trail in Meghalaya; the real marvel is…
Village of healing

Village of healing

A sunflower field catches your eye as you drive towards Shilimb village in Maharashtra. The vibrant yellow of the flowers, swaying in the breeze, soaking in the sunlight against the…
Castle Royale

Castle Royale

During the Mughal Empire and British colonial period, Gujarat’s Saurashtra region was divided into about 200 princely states and jagirs (fiefdoms). The medieval rulers lived in castle-like structures called darbargadh,…
Rail travel at bullet speeds

Rail travel at bullet speeds

High-speed trains have revolutionised surface transportation, let alone railways around the world. A high-speed rail (HSR) network utilises trains that run significantly faster than those of traditional rail, through an…
Words’ worth in Wales

Words’ worth in Wales

Hay-on-Wye wasn’t always known as the ‘town of books’. Bookseller Richard Booth, the self-proclaimed ‘King of Hay’, opened the first second-hand bookshop, The Old Fire Station, here in 1962; since…
Shikar Royale

Shikar Royale

The thrill of chancing on a wild cat from the open jeep keeps one alert at all times. What might be that ruffle in the distance, the slight movement in…
Kingdom of Quiet 

Kingdom of Quiet 

Blue should be the national colour of Bhutan. The clear skies in the backdrop of virgin pine-forested mountains are a sight to behold. The crisp air, the winding pebbled brooks…
The Monks who embalmed themselves

The Monks who embalmed themselves

No meat. No alcohol. Also forbidden were ‘Ten Cereals,’ consisting of rice, wheat, soybeans, adzuki beans, black sesame seeds, barnyard grass, millet, foxtail millet, buckwheat and corn. For mokujikigyo, Shingon monks…
Magic Mushrooms

Magic Mushrooms

But the high price of the product inhibits a scale-up. “The cost is five times that of thermocol. Besides, thermocol is quicker to make. The growth of the mushrooms cannot…
Emerging from the Shadows

Emerging from the Shadows

Technological innovations and modern entertainment in the 20th century, however, ushered in profound changes, making much of indigenous entertainment irrelevant or restricted to government tableaux. Two-time National Award-winning artist Dr Dalavai…
Notes from Ground Ziro

Notes from Ground Ziro

The last decade has seen some talented global artists play at the festival such as Prateek Kuhad, Peter Cat Recording Company, Lee Ranaldo, Acid Mothers Temple, Rabbi Shergill and Steve…
Rising like a Phoenix

Rising like a Phoenix

About 10 km away from the memorial is Nyamirambo, one of Kigali’s oldest neighbourhoods, dominated by Muslim traders speaking Swahili, who initially came here from Tanzania. Amid barber shops and…
Call of the Wild

Call of the Wild

Tipai has an osmotic relationship with nature, and at times the guest can be forgiven for wondering whether they are indoors or outdoors. The dense thickets and little water bodies…
A walk in wonderland 

A walk in wonderland 

Long walks along winding roads, gabled colonial bungalows and magnificent churches, quaint cafés and bakeries drawing people in with the wafting aroma of freshly brewed coffee and cake… Landour, a cantonment…
Divinity’s new dimension

Divinity’s new dimension

A temple dedicated to Lord Shiva in Siddipet, 100 km from Hyderabad, is teeming with crowds, thanks to it being the auspicious Karthika maasam (month of Karthik). But it’s no ordinary temple.…
Pride and patrimony

Pride and patrimony

Uttarakhand’s most revered city—Haridwar—is surprisingly a case study in art and architecture. Aside from the temples and ashrams that dot the town, there are age-old havelis and ancestral bungalows that whisper…
Taking stock of Stockholm

Taking stock of Stockholm

When in Stockholm, set stock by Swedish design. It pervades everything and every place—the cafes and museums, the castles and parks, the streets, metro stations, and even public toilets. Characterised by…
Souq it up in Cairo

Souq it up in Cairo

Fabric stores have a whimsical marketing strategy; their owners will always be found outside, calling out to passersby holding out a few samples of merchandise. Though they are mostly counterfeit…
Dharamkot diaries

Dharamkot diaries

With peaceful mountains around, fast Internet and restaurants serving multi-cuisine food, there are many who have already made Dharamkot their mountain abode. A few kilometres away is the famous Gallu…
Been here, dune that

Been here, dune that

The 6,000-plus crowd which thronged the confluence of music, art and wellness over the course of three heady days in the middle of India’s western desert could not get enough…
Toasty Warm in Tbilisi

Toasty Warm in Tbilisi

Don’t miss the Orbeliani Baths, the iconic blue-tiled bathhouse, which is known for its stunning Persian-inspired architecture and looks like a mosque. For a more luxe experience, head to the…